[giles b]

I'm using the left-over between-the-rails uncouplers from Lazy River on Puerto Paseo and am finding them hard to set up to allow Hornby locos to pass through without sometimes fouling on the back-to-backs; there were no problems with US manufactured wheel-sets.

Has anyone ever tried to grind the uncouplers a little thinner and (a) is this possible? (b) does it affect the uncoupling function?

I know one can cut down the under-track magnets, but they are made a of a softer material I think. I'm hoping to use a Dremel with the cut-off wheel fitted.

[Jordan]

I tried to shorten (as opposed to 'narrow') Kadee 'between track' magnets once; they seem to be a rather brittle substance & quite likely to shatter. I used a razor saw I think, & it took ages to cut a groove in the magnet, then 'snap' it, as the kadee guidelines suggested.
I 've no idea how a Dremel & cutting disc would go.... personally I'd be more tempted to adjust the Hornby back-to-backs, as they are most likely to be wrong anyway..!!!
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What is this thing called "Spare Time"...??

[CRACKED]

The other option is to place the uncoupling magnets under the track. The electromagnets work well, and there are more powerful permanent magnets now available.

On another issue. What is the best method of manually uncoupling. On our club layout we can not get the delayed coupling method to work reliably, due to a combination of track (the mdf distorted slightly), and stock (scratch and kit built). At slow speeds they couple, and when higher speeds are tried they end up hitting the bumpers and derailing.
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Clive

[giles b]

Thin kebab stick with sharp point (possible a slightly flattened tip - experiment if needed). Push point gently into couplings and twist slightly.