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Painting track

 
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Andy in Germany



Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 523
Location: Stuttgart

PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 10:37 am    Post subject: Painting track Reply with quote

I'm at the point on my project that I can paint track, which I haven't done in 'cough' years. I notice a lot of people seem to spray their track these days. What should I watch out for when doing this? I know that I need to keep the tops of the raoily clear,obviously, but what about the sides of the switch rails? I have now managed to get the electrical switching to work via a slider switch so I don't rely on them for electrical continuity as far as I know, but should I still keep them clear of paint and weathering?
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Andy in Germany
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ruedetropal



Joined: 22 Oct 2006
Posts: 817
Location: Accrington, Lancashire

PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if there is not too much rail,then I would hand paint. I think spraying paint is often used because some recommend it, and others just follow. If I was to use it it would only be as a primer then paint by hand. I tend not to paint the rail , but might have a go on one of mysmall projects.
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Simon Dawson
Will try anything once, looking for the ultimate easy to set up portable exhibition layout, preferably French narrow gauge and with lots going on, not necessary on the rails.

http://www.rue-d-etropal.com
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Andy in Germany



Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 523
Location: Stuttgart

PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 4:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Simon. I was thinking of spray priming and then adding handpainted weathering on the rails themselves. I need to hide the track afairr bit as I'm using N gauge track on a 1:55 scale layout...
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Andy in Germany
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ruedetropal



Joined: 22 Oct 2006
Posts: 817
Location: Accrington, Lancashire

PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I have used standard gauge trackfor narrow gauge, I have removed every other sleeper. Obviously still too small, but not so obvious.
If you are goin to hand paint on top of primer, I would still hand paint the primer, otherwise connections might get bunged up. Not just points, but rail joiners. Grey acryllic is best primer, seems to bond better than other colours.
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Simon Dawson
Will try anything once, looking for the ultimate easy to set up portable exhibition layout, preferably French narrow gauge and with lots going on, not necessary on the rails.

http://www.rue-d-etropal.com
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Blackcloud Railways



Joined: 25 Oct 2006
Posts: 1991
Location: Sandbach UK

PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

N scale standard gauge track buried in sand to hide the sleepers on a 1:48 scale layout.



I use acrylics to brush paint the rails before ballasting as I find it easier to remove from the rail heads when dried. Rubbing with a piece of scrap wood, MDF or hardboard does the job.

I try to keep the blade/stock rail contacts clear of paint even when backed up by wiring from both ends, belt and braces.

Spray painting is probably fine for huge layouts but a bit of overkill with the micros usually found on this site. After all it's a pastime, so pass the time doing it the slow way. Laughing
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giles b



Joined: 25 Oct 2006
Posts: 2006
Location: London

PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the main I follow Bob's comments. I have used both methods in the past and tend to hand paint these days - for one thing you can paint the sleepers one colour then go back and rust the chairs and rail sides.

I suspect there's not that much time difference considering all the masking before, and cleaning up after, the spray method.
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Andy in Germany



Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 523
Location: Stuttgart

PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blackcloud Railways wrote:
N scale standard gauge track buried in sand to hide the sleepers on a 1:48 scale layout.






I use acrylics to brush paint the rails before ballasting as I find it easier to remove from the rail heads when dried. Rubbing with a piece of scrap wood, MDF or hardboard does the job.

I try to keep the blade/stock rail contacts clear of paint even when backed up by wiring from both ends, belt and braces.

Spray painting is probably fine for huge layouts but a bit of overkill with the micros usually found on this site. After all it's a pastime, so pass the time doing it the slow way. Laughing



That's generally the effect I'm after Bob. I like the loco by the way, I haven't seen that one before...

I also have to be aware of what I have in stock, which is mainly artists acrylics, which will need some kind of a primer under them.

I see the point about this being a pasttime, but I'm running out of Summer holiday in which I can use the workshop, so it may well end up being spray just for the speed...
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Andy in Germany



Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 523
Location: Stuttgart

PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ruedetropal wrote:
When I have used standard gauge trackfor narrow gauge, I have removed every other sleeper. Obviously still too small, but not so obvious.
If you are goin to hand paint on top of primer, I would still hand paint the primer, otherwise connections might get bunged up. Not just points, but rail joiners. Grey acryllic is best primer, seems to bond better than other colours.


I'll bear that in mind as well, especially with my ability to muck up delicate electrical things...
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Andy in Germany
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ruedetropal



Joined: 22 Oct 2006
Posts: 817
Location: Accrington, Lancashire

PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I take it steady, step by step. I have also found that wiring up insulafrog points so they are live(not the frog ) and not deoendent on power going through tips of point blades works better than any other method. I have had too many problems with something getting on point blades and something not working as a result. It is also why I am anti electrofrog, as it adds more complications, with greater chance of something going wrong. It does mean I have to be more careful with which motor chassis I use, and discard those that are not up to scratch. More difficult with 9mm gauge, but there are some excellent chassis available from Japan.
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Simon Dawson
Will try anything once, looking for the ultimate easy to set up portable exhibition layout, preferably French narrow gauge and with lots going on, not necessary on the rails.

http://www.rue-d-etropal.com
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Andy in Germany



Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 523
Location: Stuttgart

PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Track ballasted and painted, and wonder of wonders, it works.

Will post pictures when I am next on location with a camera...
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Blackcloud Railways



Joined: 25 Oct 2006
Posts: 1991
Location: Sandbach UK

PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Korschtal wrote:


I like the loco by the way, I haven't seen that one before.


Nice isn't it Andy?

It's a 3D print from Shapeways, actually designed as a two foot gauge loco for 1:55 but I'm using it as a small 18 inch gauge battery electric in 1:48 scale. It runs on a Kato 11-103 chassis (in keeping with Simon's comment about Japanese mechanisms).

http://www.shapeways.com/product/K3VN3KB2U/55n9-electric-loco-10?optionId=1514819
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Bob Hughes
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ruedetropal



Joined: 22 Oct 2006
Posts: 817
Location: Accrington, Lancashire

PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ihave one of those loco bodies, as well as the coaches Tom did for 1/55 scale. Intend to have some 9mm gauge track on one of my mini layouts. I also have one of the bigger versions(1/43?)which can fit a 1/32nd scale figure.
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Simon Dawson
Will try anything once, looking for the ultimate easy to set up portable exhibition layout, preferably French narrow gauge and with lots going on, not necessary on the rails.

http://www.rue-d-etropal.com
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