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O gauge wheels help please

 
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pdbrooksburke



Joined: 05 Apr 2009
Posts: 25
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:36 am    Post subject: O gauge wheels help please Reply with quote

Does anyone know where I can get any replacement wheels for my very old Atlas US type box car wheels?
They are of the molded plastic variety so you cannot change the the 'back to back' on them.
I rang Tower Models but they only do Slaters and British stuff generally;
Model Junction dont do O gauge.
Is it a case of dealing direct with Atlas or does anyone out there have any?

PaulBB
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Jordan



Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 651

PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the delay getting to reply to this... Embarassed

I have an old Atlas 40ft car that was custom painted for P&D Hobby Shop, Michigan USA, and this has steel wheels as a direct replacement for the old plastic steamrollers. It would be worth emailing them to enquire what they recommend?

On an Atlas Bobber 4-wheel caboose I replaced the plastic wheels with Alan Gibson "Lowmac" wheels... the two axles cost me as much as the Caboose did...!!! Rolling Eyes Shocked Laughing
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Jordan



Joined: 27 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Further to this, I've found the website for Precision Scale Models who also do very nice replacement wheelsets, which I've also used.

Click on the box marked "Misc", then under "Wheelsets" choose from the drop-down list, in this case "O Passenger/Freight" Wink
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pdbrooksburke



Joined: 05 Apr 2009
Posts: 25
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 7:51 am    Post subject: Ogauge wheels Reply with quote

Jordan Many thanks for your help. P&D models do wheels but they tell me that the new ones Atlas use are not suitable for the old stock-they are too wide. I know as they sent me a 3 rail freight car instead of 2 rail and then supplied me with wheels/couplers 'kit' to convert it. They do look too wide. I have since found some old Pola Maxi wheels that will stretch enough so as not to 'bounce' over Peco point frogs.
Problem now is to get the magnetic couplers to work; my existing HO ones dont seem strong enough; also the Atlas coupleres need lowering with pliers. Is there a special super strong magnet needed for O gauge?
Paul
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Jordan



Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 651

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to admit I've never got around to magnetic uncoupling in O scale, yet. Embarassed
Years ago I had a couple of Bachmann under-track magnets (for HO) which had a steel backing plate with them that could boost the power of the magnetic field, but I never got around to trying them in O scale. I'd be more inclined to try Electro-magnets, if and when I get around to it - I must admit I quite like uncoupling by hand as it's something to do besides twiddle the controller knob, and avoids the un-realistic "Kadee Dance" the loco has to do... Laughing Laughing
The Atlas couplings also seem much more strongly sprung than Kadees, as well as the trip pin being high, but in some cases (usually locos) I've not been able to do a direct swap to Kadee #805's.
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Prof Klyzlr



Joined: 22 Jan 2008
Posts: 24
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dear US O scalers,

Kadee themselves reccomend that up to 2 X 307 undertrack magnets + steel intensifier plates may be required for reliable uncoupling in O scale.

It was this issue, along with the fact that I was trying to dis/prove the oft touted theory that "bigger O scale trains invite a more 'up-close-and-personal'/'hands-on' interaction when operating",
that led to me _not_ using Kadee 307s,
and instead using a small fave screwdriver for manual uncoupling on my last layout "Chicago Fork".

(BTW yes, the overall size of O scale equipment was a turn-off at first, how could I fit such equipment into any form of "space you can actually live with"? However, after it's debut show, and subsequent selling, I actually missed the look and feel of a 2 kilo diesel switching with boxcars that were almost the size of my head. Still have the equipment though, so I may revisit the "O scale SG micro" layout concept at some time in the future...).

Current-style Atlas Hi-Cube boxcars easily converted to Kadee 805 couplers in the Kadee draftgear boxes. Simply
- dis-assemble and remove the Atlas couplers, and draftgear boxes
(I agree, they are waaaay too stiff in their knuckle action, and the trip-pin is nowhere near where it needs to be to work with the Kadee 307 magnets),
- dry-assemble the Kadee 805 couplers and draftgear boxes,
- and use M2 metric screws to simply "bolt them on" using the existing Atlas mounting holes
(They are not an _exact_ match, with the Atlas holes being slightly furthur apart. However, there is enough slop in the Kadee draftgear mounting holes to make it do-able).

Can't comment on mounting on Atlas locos, my CLW GP35 had Kadee 805s mounted when it came to me...

Hope this Helps,

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr
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Jordan



Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 651

PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prof Klyzlr wrote:
... instead using a small fave screwdriver for manual uncoupling on my last layout "Chicago Fork".


That's exactly what I've been using...!!! Laughing Laughing Laughing

Have to agree that Atlas rolling stock is pretty easy to convert to Kadees; it's the locos that I've found more trouble. Embarassed
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Prof Klyzlr



Joined: 22 Jan 2008
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Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dear Jordan,

As I tend to carry that screwdriver and a pair of tweezers in my chest pocket when at shows, it's the "tool that came to hand"...

However, when handing over the controls to random punters to operate,
I tend to offer a disposable hardwood kebab skewer, rather than my fave screwdriver.

Works just as well, with no risk of loosing my driver,
and less chance of damage to both the tool and the cars...
(the average "walk up" may not have done manual uncoupling before, and may take a few stabs down between the cars before getting the technique down pat...)

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr
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pdbrooksburke



Joined: 05 Apr 2009
Posts: 25
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:35 am    Post subject: O Gauge wheels Reply with quote

Jordan, Prof

Many thanks for your advice-I was using a wooden kebab type pole myself..... think I will stick to it; may replace the Atlas couplers with 805's when I get round to it and when I find a source. Manual operation is fun- more fun than 3 links on UK stock. When are we gonna see Chicago Fork in MTI then?
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Prof Klyzlr



Joined: 22 Jan 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dear Paul,

Unfortunately I fear that opportunity may have already passed

1 - it was shown in Carl A's Scrapbook (Don't known MTIs policy of publishing anything which has aleady been seen online)

2 - I no longer own the layout
(It did the show it was built for, proved its point, and then moved on)

3 - the new owner would be open to taking it out to shows, or opening it up for photo sessions. However, to mate it with his existing large O scale layout, (it forms a small switching branch), there have been some mods made which materially change the configuration as designed,
(thus dis-qualifying it as a Micro, or even a standalone small layout).

That said, if there's anything you would like to know about "Chicago Fork", feel free to ask! I may have some "in build-stage" pics which capture the element in question.

I also still have the O scale equipment,
(the new owner already had easily enough trains to overrun his existing layout),

so there's every possibility that I may end up doing another "O scale SG Micro" somewhere down the track... Wink

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr
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pdbrooksburke



Joined: 05 Apr 2009
Posts: 25
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dear Prof Klyzir

Thanks for your comments. I have seen the images on Carl A's site; maybe some more images of Chicago Fork would be nice-especially some technical detail about your hand built switch/point and track/ballast-what radius? materials used ?
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Prof Klyzlr



Joined: 22 Jan 2008
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Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dear Paul,

Thanks for the questions and interest!
I don't want to hi-jack this thread, so have started thread #5878

http://forum.mtimag.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=5878#5878

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr
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