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Methods of assembling white metal kits help!!!

 
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murphy1570



Joined: 21 Jun 2009
Posts: 20
Location: scotland

PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:49 am    Post subject: Methods of assembling white metal kits help!!! Reply with quote

Hello folks
I have a Peco white metal kit of the 060 "JEANETTE" for 00-9 narrow gauge it is a tank engine body kit for a Farish chassis both of which I bought several years ago, I have finally plucked up the courage to start building it. My prefrence is to use 2 part epoxy glue and I have glued both the front and rear buffer beams and the front coupler to the footplate, however I am having great difficllty trying to glue the rear coupler to the footplate as there is very little material to glue it to, I am at the tearing out of the hair stage!!!.I have been advised to solder this part on using low melt solder in conjunction with a low melt flux I do have a vairable heat "solder station" but have never used it given as a present by a well meaning relative as mysoldering skills are ZERO!!! never having built a white metal kit I am sure I will end up with a moulten lump of metal!!, the temperature of the solder station is vairable between 160 to 480 degres centigrade.
I would be grateful if any fellow members could give me any advice particularly if they have experince of assembling white netal kits and especially the "JEANETTE" kit before I have no hair left!!!.
Thanks folks all the best, John. HELP!!!
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alastairq



Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 361
Location: the land that time forgot

PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.finescale.org.uk/show_page.php?pid=101&PHPSESSID=7b4e50f8c4f5141ce90177329a2ba759


the above gives advice and instruction.....but I suspect you'd have to spend loadsadosh buying the correct kit for the job?

I have recently been in amongst a couple of whitemetal fire engine kits [for young sonandheir]....and decided to try soldering in preference to gluing [super and epxy types]...as I couldn't be sure if the models would survive my son's attentions.

Admittedly I have a soldering iron [or six] which can reach a temp setting as low as 70 degrees.

This is also the melting point of low-melt solder [which apparently isn't like ordinary solder]

I also got some Carr's yellow flux..which is supposed to be specifically for white metal.

[White metals appear to differ too.......some having a much higher melting point than others!!!]
My experience so far has been mixed.......I have found that low melt 'solder' works better if one can get hold of thin sticks rather than big lumps of the stuff...[I got on better with some Javis solder, than teh Gaugemaster stuff]

The other problem...regarding whitemetal soldering, is the thickness of the whitemetal itself.

For very thin sections, plenty of flux, low iron temps, and 'quick in-and- out technique works ok......

However, many whitemetal castings are incredibly thick [the downside of whitemetal for kits?]

therefore low [70 degree] iron temps don't work so well...and I have ended up using a massive [wooden-handled] 80 watt iron to get enough heat for the solder to 'stick' to the parts...!!!!!!

In fact, I've had better sticking results using a lare hot iron, and surplus lumps of whitemetal to 'weld' the parts together.


So.....firstly, I would have a play with the whitemetl of the kit .....try your iron [on it's lowest temp!!], trying hotter temps as you go... on a part of the bodyshell that doesn't show [ the inside] and see exactly what time and temp starts to 'melt the surface..[try an edge underneath??]..this will give you some idea of what technique is feasible....with the material the kit is made of. [is there any scrap or surplus material??]

Don't expect teh solder to 'flow' like it would with brass.....


secondly......only use one specific iron tip for whitemetal......and low-melt solder.

The stuff these materials are made of, will contaminate your iron's tips, making future 'normal' soldering difficult


so...avoid excessive heat build-up....avoid losing too much heat via heat-sink syndrome...ie bigger iron for thicker materials...

Take care over thin sections.....but....remember you can always build up lost material with low-melt solder..puddling, filling, and filing smooth.....


make sure the whitemetal is clean as well......


there is an Iain Rice book on building whitemetal kits....and he includes lots of advice on using solder to 'repair' damage or poor manufacturing/casting......
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mog



Joined: 31 Oct 2006
Posts: 450
Location: Mansfield Notts UK

PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glue.

I've been making an old GEM whitemetal kit and actually found that using a Bostik 'general purpose' glue working quite well. Bit on both sides.. let it cure, sticky sticky, job done...better than superglue for me (safer for my fingers too!)
As to long term stick-togetherness.. dunno though.
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mog



Joined: 31 Oct 2006
Posts: 450
Location: Mansfield Notts UK

PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ooh.. and.. if you are joining two awkward bits together.. you could drill and pin to help to strengthen the bond. Should work for the couplers I reckon?
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murphy1570



Joined: 21 Jun 2009
Posts: 20
Location: scotland

PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello folks
Thanks for your advice re white metal kits and methods of glueing/soldeing them I will try the low melt solder method if I san get some excess white metal, and also the bostic glueing method, I will let you know how I get on, unfortunately there is not enough material on the chassis footpate to drill and pin it.
Thanks all the best, John.
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